Water Well Cost Calculator
Estimate the total cost to drill a private water well — including drilling, pump system, pressure tank, and permits — based on your region, depth, and well type.
Well Details
Pump & Equipment
Understanding Water Well Drilling Costs
Well Depth and What Affects It
Well depth is the single biggest driver of total project cost. Depth is determined by local geology — specifically, how deep you must go to reach a reliable, clean aquifer. In areas with a shallow water table (common in the Southeast and parts of the Midwest), you may hit productive water at 50–150 feet. In the arid Southwest, mountainous Northwest, or granite-heavy Northeast, depths of 300–600 feet are common, and wells exceeding 800 feet are not unheard of. Before drilling, most drillers rely on local well logs — public records of neighboring wells — to estimate likely depth. A hydrogeologist or local well contractor is your best source for realistic expectations in your specific county.
Types of Wells and Their Costs
Drilled wells are the most common type for rural properties. A rotary or cable-tool rig bores down through rock and soil to reach bedrock or a deep sand aquifer. These wells can reach hundreds of feet and are suitable for nearly any geology. Costs typically range from $15 to $50 per foot depending on region, rock hardness, and rig mobilization. Bored wells are large-diameter (12–36 inch) shallow wells dug by an auger rig. They work well in soft soil with a high water table but are limited to about 100 feet. Cost is lower at $10–20/ft, but they are more vulnerable to surface contamination. Driven point (sand point) wells are only viable in sandy, shallow-water-table areas — think coastal plains and lake regions. A steel point is driven into the ground with no rig required; costs are mostly materials at $5–15 per foot, though depth is typically capped at 25–50 feet.
Casing Material: PVC vs. Steel
Well casing is the pipe that lines the borehole and protects the water column from surface contamination. PVC casing is standard in most of the country — it's corrosion-resistant, lower-cost, and perfectly adequate in stable soil. Steel casing is preferred in rocky or unstable formations where the borehole walls may collapse, and is required in some states for the upper portion of any well. Expect steel to add $2–8 per foot over PVC pricing.
Pump Systems
Submersible pumps are lowered directly into the well and push water up to the surface. They're more efficient, quieter, and better for deep wells (over 25 feet). Installed cost typically runs $800–2,500 depending on depth and flow rate required. Jet pumps sit above ground and pull water up via suction. They cost less upfront ($300–800 installed) and are easier to service, but are limited to about 25 feet of lift for single-stage models (up to 75 feet for two-stage models). Jet pumps are better suited to shallow bored or driven wells.
Permits, Inspections, and Hidden Costs
Most counties require a well permit before drilling begins. Permit fees typically range from $100 to $500, and many jurisdictions also require a water quality test before the well is approved for use. Budget an additional $100–200 for a basic potability test, more if you want a full mineral analysis. Other costs to anticipate include pump wiring and electrical work ($300–800), pitless adapter installation, grout sealing of the annulus (often required by code), and any water treatment equipment if the water tests high in iron, hardness, or bacteria.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know how deep my well needs to be?
The best starting point is your county's well log database — most states maintain public records of all permitted wells in each area, including depth and yield. Your local well driller will pull these records and estimate likely depth for your parcel. Depth varies significantly even within a single county depending on whether you're on a ridge, valley, or near a river. A neighbor's 150-foot well doesn't guarantee yours will be the same. In hard-rock regions, it's common to commit to drilling until you hit an acceptable yield (typically 1–3 gallons per minute for a household), regardless of how deep that takes you.
What's a normal water well yield, and how much do I need?
A typical household needs 1–3 gallons per minute (GPM) for basic use — cooking, bathing, laundry, and toilets. A family of four with a garden and livestock may need 5–10 GPM. The well's yield (also called flow rate) is tested during the drilling process, and most contractors won't leave until the well produces a minimum acceptable rate. If the formation is poor, the driller may recommend hydrofracturing — pumping high-pressure water into the well to open cracks — which can improve yield significantly and typically costs $500–1,500 extra.
Is a drilled well worth it compared to a municipal hookup?
On rural land beyond the reach of city water, a well is often the only viable option. But even where a municipal hookup is available, many rural property owners prefer a well because there are no monthly water bills, no usage restrictions, and the water is often higher quality or more mineral-rich. The break-even point against typical rural water utility fees is usually 5–15 years depending on connection fees and monthly costs. After that, your water is essentially free (beyond electricity to run the pump, typically $30–80/year for a household well).
What can go wrong when drilling a water well?
The most common issue is not hitting a productive aquifer at the expected depth — forcing you to drill deeper and pay more per foot than budgeted. Rocky formations can cause drill bit wear and slow progress, increasing rig time charges. In some areas, iron bacteria or high mineral content means the water is technically available but requires treatment before it's usable. Drought conditions can also cause wells to run dry years later, requiring deepening or redevelopment. Always get a firm per-foot price and ask about the contractor's policy if they hit difficult rock — some charge a "dry hole" rate if they drill to a specified depth without finding water.